Beach form. The occurrence of different types of beach morphology can be parameterized by the dimensionless fall velocity Ω, The equation is:
where
H is the wave height,
ws is the speed at which a sediment particle falls through still water, and
T is the wave period. Reflective beaches tend to develop when Ω < 1.5, intermediate beaches are those where
Ω = 1.5–5.5, and dissipative beaches form when
Ω > 5.5.